Choosing the right footwear is the art of building a cohesive image, where the style, material, and knowledge of a few basic rules matter most. These rules aren't complicated, and mastering them is the key to true elegance and navigating the world of formal footwear with confidence.
What Style of Dress Shoe Should You Choose?
Before we get into colors, we need to choose the right style of shoe. The style is what largely determines the formality of your outfit. Each type has its specific purpose.
Oxfords: The Foundation of Elegance
If you're looking for an absolute classic, a shoe that will always be appropriate for formal occasions, your answer is the Oxford. Their defining feature is the closed lacing system, which means the part with the eyelets is sewn underneath the vamp. This creates an incredibly smooth, slim, and clean line.
This is precisely why Oxfords are considered the most elegant men's shoes. Black Oxfords, made from smooth, polished leather, are the only right choice for a tuxedo or a very formal business suit. They are a sure bet for a wedding, a gala, or an important business meeting. Simple. Noble. Timeless.
Brogues: A Touch of Character
What if you're looking for something with a bit more character? Something that says you know the rules but like to add your own twist? That's when brogues take the stage.
Their signature is the decorative perforations, or the small holes that form distinctive patterns. Remember a simple rule: the more broguing, the less formal the shoe. Full-brogues, with their prominent pattern on the toe, are ideal for smart-casual outfits, for example, with a fall wool suit. On the other hand, quarter-brogues, with perforations only on the toe cap seam, can successfully replace Oxfords in a business environment, adding a subtle touch of flair.
What Color Shoes Go with a Suit?
Now that we have the style, let's move on to the color palette. This is where mistakes are most often made. There's a common belief that black shoes go with everything. While it's a safe option, it's often the most conservative one.
For a navy suit, which is the most versatile in a man's wardrobe, you have several great options. Black shoes will create a very formal, classic combination, perfect for the evening. Brown shoes are a more modern and incredibly stylish choice. Dark, chocolate brown is elegant, while lighter shades like cognac lower the formality and add a touch of ease to the look. For the more adventurous, burgundy shoes are a great choice, showing self-confidence and an excellent sense of style.
A gray suit also offers plenty of room to play. For a dark gray or charcoal suit, black shoes are the best fit, creating a strong, business-like look. On the other hand, all shades of brown pair beautifully with a light gray suit. It's a harmonious combination that exudes a calm elegance.
However, there is one unbreakable rule. With a black suit, you wear only black shoes. A black suit is the pinnacle of formality, reserved for the most solemn occasions. Any other color of shoe will disrupt its stature and create an undesirable contrast.
Choosing the Material: Leather or Suede?
The material is hugely important because it defines the character of your outfit. Full-grain leather is the standard. Smooth, with a subtle shine, it is the epitome of classic elegance. It's a universal material, suitable for any season and most occasions.
Suede, on the other hand, brings a softness and interesting texture to the style. It's considered less formal, but that's not entirely true. Dark brown suede Oxfords can look amazing with a thicker, flannel suit. They are perfect for fall and winter, adding a cozy feel to the outfit. Just remember that suede requires a bit more care and proper protection.
What Else Should You Pay Attention To?
As always, the devil is in the details, and well-chosen men's accessories play a key role here. Once you've mastered the basics, start paying attention to the details that signify a quality shoe.
The shape of the toe is crucial. Avoid shoes with ridiculously elongated or square toes – those are relics of a bygone fashion era. Opt for a classic, slightly rounded line that gives the foot a slim look. Also, pay attention to the sole. A leather sole is the most elegant but can be slippery. A rubber sole is more practical, especially on rainy days. The highest sign of quality is a Goodyear welted construction, which guarantees durability and the ability to replace a worn-out sole.
What About Breaking the Rules?
Finally, a question that surely comes to mind. Do all these rules still apply? In street style, we see suits paired with sneakers. It's an interesting trend, but it requires a great sense of style and is only acceptable in very specific, mostly creative, environments.
Remember one golden rule: to knowingly break the rules, you must first know them perfectly. Otherwise, your bold choice might just look like a mistake. Classic elegance is a solid foundation on which you can build your own unique style. Your shoes are your signature—make sure it's a deliberate and thoughtful one, much like choosing the perfect perfume or watch.
